The Den of Slack

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Braxton Payne fireplace with added built-ins

As I mentioned in my last post, I spent a lot of time arranging furniture in the Mansard Victorian to find a space to use this Bauder Pine corner cabinet. Literally the only corner I could make it work is this one in the living room, with a fireplace next to it.

I tried out a few different fireplaces from my stash, but none of them sang to me. I’d originally planned to use the Cassidy Creations Federal fireplace wall in this house, but it turned out to be too tall. When that didn’t work out, I wanted to find something else that was really special.

Braxton Payne makes the nicest half scale fireplaces I know of, and I checked his website, but none of the standard designs were calling out to me.bas

And then this popped up on eBay.

This is a Braxton Payne fireplace from 1982. It’s five inches tall — exactly the height of the Mansard Victorian’s ceiling — and it has a Federal feel, like the Cassidy Creations kit I can’t use in here.

Here’s how it looks in the space I’d decided on for the fireplace.

There are a few problems with this arrangement. One, the corner cabinet is awkwardly blocked. If the point is to make the corner cabinet a focal point, this isn’t the way to do it. Also, this fireplace has a few imperfections that are very obvious when you view it from the right side. One is a broken corner that the seller repaired.

And the other is a splotch where the paint is gone.

Okay, so if I give up on the idea of using the cabinet in that corner, I could add shelves to either side to hide the splotch. These are Houseworks bookcases that I pulled the trim off of during a short-lived (and never blogged-about) attempt to recreate the Federal fireplace wall at a height that would work in the Mansard Victorian. But if I’m giving up on the corner cabinet anyway, it would be better to put the fireplace along the back wall, so your eye isn’t drawn to that repaired corner.

I looked online for pics of Federal fireplaces for inspiration and found this photo.

This got me thinking about the corner cabinet again. The one I wanted to use in this house was finished by Bauder Pine, but I also have several Cassidy Creations kits of the same design that I’m squirreling away for a future roombox project. Could I bash those to sit flat against the wall instead? Sort of like this:

I didn’t like this because they’re so much shorter than the fireplace. The shelving should go all the way to the ceiling.

Next I pulled out these Bespaq Greyford bookcases. These are the double-wide version of the bookcases I used on either side of the window in the Queen Anne Rowhouse stair room.

The height is better, but the wood finish is a problem since I wouldn’t be able make the fireplace match. Plus, this is too wide — I haven’t glued in the room dividers yet, but the entry and the kitchen both need to be a certain width to accommodate the furniture I want to use in there, and this layout wouldn’t leave enough space.

The Bespaq bookcases also feel too fancy for this house, which I want to have a more Colonial/rustic feel with the Bauder Pine and Cassidy Creations furniture.

I spent some time staring at the Houseworks bookcases that are pictured farther up. If only I had some cabinets they could sit on top of…

Hmmm… like these, maybe?

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Mansard Victorian – making plans & cutting holes

Now that the Craftsman bungalow is finished, I’m going to dig in to the Bauder Pine Mansard Victorian shell I bought earlier this year. The house came with two side additions that I decided not to use. I don’t like how much they stick out, or the flat roofs. They don’t look like natural extensions of the house to me.

That being said, I did want to add *something* to the side of the house, to enlarge the footprint. I have several pieces of Bauder-Pine furniture that I want to use in this house, and I was having trouble making it all fit. In particular, the living room, dining room, and kitchen were giving me trouble.

There’s easily enough space to divide the first floor into three rooms, but the front door is centered on the house. It makes the most sense for the door to open into the living room, except that would put the living room in the middle.

I know dollhouses are unrealistic places with missing walls and sometimes no stairs or bathroom, but I just couldn’t reconcile the idea of a living room between a kitchen and a dining room!

Here’s the furniture I’m trying to accommodate:

I thought about combining the kitchen and dining room into one, but the bay windows were getting in the way. Either I wouldn’t have enough wall space for all of the appliances, or a corner for the cabinet, or a big enough space for the table and benches.

I bought this Lawbre French canopy years ago thinking it would make a good bay window roof whenever I got around to building the Queen Anne Rowhouse kit I have in my stash. (Which may now never happen, seeing as I already have a normal Rowhouse and a heavily bashed Rowhouse… how many rowhouses does one person need? Um, can I get back to you on that?)

An early idea was to build a bump-out on one side of the Mansard Victorian, like the one on the Rowhouse. I planned to bash a side-by-side window into a smaller piano window that could have the Cassidy Creations player piano underneath it.

When I couldn’t find a good way to arrange the furniture, I started thinking about adding another addition to the other side of the house. I liked the idea of a bay window, just not one as sticky-outy as the extensions that came with the house.

I searched for 1:12 bay windows to see if I could find something to bash into a 1:24 addition, and look what I found!

The ceiling is 6.25″ tall, which makes for a nice high 12.5′ ceiling in half scale. It really doesn’t give me that much extra floor space, but I liked the mansard roof so much that I was determined to make it work.

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Craftsman bungalow vignette – finished!

With the porch finished, all I had left to do on the bungalow were a few pieces of trim. But first, as I often do as a project nears completion (see here and here), I went down a rabbit hole of destruction that took a little work to climb back out of.

It all started when I added beams to the ceiling. These came with the kit, but there was no interior photo so I didn’t know how they would look. But beams are beams, right? I know what beams look like. What could go wrong?

I stained them to match the rest of the wood, glued them in, and… I didn’t like them.

I used a scrap piece of wood to make sure the beams on each side of the ceiling are evenly spaced, but didn’t think about how the two at the top would look in relation to each other, and they’re too close together. And I also just didn’t like the look. It’s distracting, and it doesn’t say Craftsman to me.

Of course, I let the glue dry before I decided I didn’t like them. So when I pulled them down, the ceiling ended up like this.

So that’s not great, but shouldn’t be hard to fix. Right? Except…

Yikes. I didn’t notice that some glue on the beam had stuck to the wallpaper, and when I pulled the beam down, the wallpaper came with it.

Luckily one torn piece was still attached, and the other piece was stuck to the beam.

I was able to glue them back in place. Those spots aren’t perfect, you have to really look for them.

(It’s a good thing this was Brodnax Prints paper, which is thin and not coated. If it had been the thicker Itsy Bitsy Mini paper that I often use, I think the patch would have been more noticeable. On the other hand, the thicker, coated paper might not have torn in the first place?)

I cut another piece of ceiling paper and glued it in over the shreds of the old one. It’s like it never happened! Except…

There are some cracks where the ceiling paper doesn’t quite meet the wallpaper, and you can see the wood underneath. This was true with the first attempt too (you can see them in the first photo above, between the beams). I’d been planning to add skinny basswood strips, either painted ceiling color or stained, between the beams.

I played around with trim but it since very skinny pieces of wood tend to be flexible and not perfectly straight, I didn’t think I could glue it in snug enough to neatly fix the problem. I also tried masking the wallpaper and ceiling paper and dabbing paint in the cracks, which was pretty risky (speaking of ruining houses when they’re almost done) and didn’t work anyway.

If only the ceiling paper were a little thicker, these cracks wouldn’t be a problem…

I cut a piece of stiff paper and glued this in on top of the ceiling paper. The thickness of the paper covers up the cracks.

Then I glued a piece of ceiling paper on top of that. Third time’s a charm! Except…

The multiple layers of paper have gotten rather thick, especially at the peak where they’re not folded sharply.

Luckily this will be covered up by the stripwood trim I’m adding to the edges of the roof.

I glued 1/4″ x 1/32″ strip wood around the edges of the roof, stained Minwax Ebony like the shingles. My roof peaks had been a little sloppy because of how the pieces fit together, but the trim turns this into a nice sharp corner.

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