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Craftsman bungalow vignette in 1:24 scale

For the past few months I have been working on a bookcase for my office. I bought three of these unfinished bookcases and stained them with Minwax Aged Oak gel stain. This took a lot longer than staining dollhouse furniture! I dragged it out over a month and a half, doing a few pieces each weekend.

Then Geoff helped me cut down the tops so the three bookcases could fit right next to each other, and we assembled them and bolted them together.

There are some empty spots on the shelves that are perfect for displaying minis. The Infinite Possibilities Porch and four seasons roombox have already found a home here, and I’ll put the screened-in back porch here when it’s finished. (I hit a snag with that and haven’t worked on it in a while — more details to come in a future post.)

This weekend I started another small project that will fit on the bookshelf when it’s finished, a Craftsman bungalow vignette kit by Debbie Young.

I bought this kit from the same seller as screened-in porch. It was originally a quarter scale kit that Debbie released a batch of in half scale (I think it was for a club project, but I might be misremembering).

The kit came with instructions and everything else required — components, shingles, siding, etc. The only picture is the one on the front of the box.

The window and doors are plastic Grandt Line components. I’m not a fan of these. I hate painting plastic and I want to stain the front door.

I dug through my stash and found these, which I bought on eBay several years ago. They look like components off a Real Good Toys East Side Townhouse, which is now discontinued. I really like the mullions, but was never a fan of the pediments. (And yet I still bought them, because I have an addiction.) The windows come with pre-assembled interior trim.

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Mr. Spatula’s water cooler (finally!)

Almost a year ago, I started planning one of the most complicated elements of the Freelance Police office: Mr. Spatula’s water cooler.

I made the aquarium out of a glass dome with a cork base. The castle is a painted charm. After a failed attempt with resin for the water, I made this version with glycerin.

This didn’t have quite enough liquid in it, and it also seemed to have a small leak — sometimes I’d pick it up and it felt greasy, like glycerin was seeping out. I had used waterproof silicone adhesive around the inside of the dome where the cork stuck in, and this prevented a tight fit.

I made another attempt over the summer. This time I pushed the cork in tight first, and then used the silicone around the bottom edge. What I didn’t do this time, that I had done last time, was smear silicone over the bottom of the cork. I’m not sure why I didn’t do that… laziness, I guess. It didn’t seem necessary.

Turns out I was wrong! The aquarium seemed fine for a couple of months, but recently I placed it on the floor of the roombox, and when I moved it later I noticed a small wet spot underneath it. I wiped this up (luckily it didn’t damage the flooring) and set the dome on a tissue to see what would happen.

A week or so later I checked the tissue it was saturated with glycerin that had leaked out through the bottom of the cork. Could a temperature change in my workshop be the culprit? It was in the 90s when I made it, and now it’s getting down into the 40s at night. I glopped silicone all over the base of the cork and that seems to have stopped the leak, but enough glycerin has now leaked out that the water level is once again too low. Sigh.

So, I have to make *another* aquarium. I’m okay with this, because I didn’t like how this one turned out. I forgot to use gesso on the metal castle before painting it, so it has a metallic sheen, plus a few rogue pieces of gravel got stuck to Mr. Spatula’s belly when I turned the base upside down to insert it into the dome.

For now I’ve moved on to the base. This is the best picture I have of the full water cooler. In Telltale’s Sam & Max games you rarely see this corner of the office due to the camera position.

I started with four pieces of wood — the side pieces are 1″ basswood and the front and back are cut from basswood that’s scored at 1/16″ intervals. The score lines made it easy to cut down to the size I need it and to cut a hole into the front piece. (I also used this wood for the file cabinet.)

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Freelance Police office – file cabinet and stacks of paper

Big news! After a year and a half on preorder, my Sam & Max figures from Boss Fight Studio are finally here! But that’s not even the biggest news…

Sam & Max Save the World — the game my roombox is based on — is being rereleased on PC and Nintendo Switch!

Sam & Max Save the World Remastered will be out on December 2, and I’m handling PR for the launch. The new version was created by a small team of people who worked on the original and acquired the rights after Telltale (the game’s developer) shut down in 2018. Read all about it in this VICE Games article and feast your eyes on the trailer below.

If you’re just here for the dollhouses and have no idea what I’m talking about, my first post about the Freelance Police roombox has a crash course on the history of this series and my connection to it.

The Freelance Police office looks more cartoony in the new version — closer to Steve Purcell’s comics.

It now has lighting and shadows that the tech couldn’t handle in the original, and the color of the walls is more green. (But I will not repaint my walls!)

Here’s how my office looks so far:

This weekend I made the file cabinet to the right of Sam’s desk. I made this out of 1/16″ thick basswood, with 1/4″ square basswood as supports inside the cabinet. (The cabinet is hollow with fake drawers.)

I wanted to make the drawers square like they are in the game, but in order to have three square drawers I would have had to make the file cabinet shorter, and then it would have seemed too short next to Sam.

I assembled the cabinet by gluing the front and side pieces to 1/4″ square supports.


The support pieces are slightly shorter than the cabinet pieces. I lined them up at the bottom, leaving an approximately 1/16″ gap at the top.

The top piece sits on those support pieces.

My front, back, and sides weren’t all exactly the same length. I lined them up at the bottom, so the top was uneven. After gluing in the top piece, I cleaned up the top on the disc sander. Then I hand sanded the whole cabinet with fine grit sandpaper to make it nice and smooth.

Here’s how it looks next to Sam. Seems a little short, but as I mentioned above I was limited by the height of the drawer fronts.

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