The Den of Slack

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Queen Anne Rowhouse all lit up

After one of the wires under my Queen Anne Rowhouse burned up, I decided I should clean up the rat’s nest of wires to prevent future damage.

When I started electrifying the Rowhouse back in 2012, I was regretting that I connected the Fairfield’s lights under the floorboards, where I couldn’t easily access them if a light stopped working (which one of them did). In the Rowhouse, I decided to pull all the wires down to the bottom of the house and connect them there so I could access them later. I also thought I should leave the wires long, in case I needed to snip them to re-attach them to the tapewire at some point — I didn’t want to run out of wire and massively overcompensated.

When I recently added two lights to replace the ones I had to break in order to re-wallpaper the stair rooms, I added plugs to the wires instead of hardwiring them into the tapewire. That went well, so I decided it would be much neater, and more stable in the long run, to cut all the wires short and attach them with plugs instead of hardwiring.

I started by disconnecting all the hardwired lights and removing the brads and the tapewire (I didn’t want the tapewire to be full of holes). The pieces of black tape are covering up the cut-off ends of the lights that had to be removed, so they don’t accidentally touch any other metal in the circuit and cause a problem.

I thought about using a power strip instead of individual outlets. (It would have had to be connected to the tapewire somehow, since there are two outlets inside the house that are plugged into the tape.) It would have made this project much quicker, but I decided against it because the wires come out in a bunch of different places underneath the house. For all the plugs to reach the power strip, I would have needed some long wires, and cleaning up the wires was the whole point.

The shortest wire is the one coming from the attic. I only had about two inches work with. I added the plug to this wire before laying down the tapewire, to ensure I put the tapewire in a position the plug could reach.

I managed to get the plug on without any drama, but now the wire’s even shorter!

It’s too short to plug into tape wire on the bottom of the house, so I ran some along the side instead. Then I put down the other two pieces and used brads to make connections between them.

I plugged the plug with the short wire into an outlet and then poked the pointy ends of the outlet into the tapewire, so I’d be sure that the plug could reach.

When I put an outlet in the bottom of the house to test the new lights I installed a few weeks ago, I totally mangled it trying to pound it into the plywood without pilot holes. This time I used the micro drill to make the holes, using the dimples that were created when I poked in the outlet’s pointy ends.

Here it is with all of the plugs and outlets in place. It took a few hours to get them all in and working, and it wasn’t fun! I tested each light as I went along, and needed to jiggle the outlets around a lot to get them to make a connection with the tapewire.

I hadn’t considered that by drilling holes into the plywood, I was creating a channel for the metal spikes to pass through the tapewire without actually touching it. I ended up scraping off the plastic around the holes so there would be exposed metal for the flared ends of the spikes to make contact with, and even then needed to do some jiggling to get some of the outlets to work. On the bright side, the outlets are nice and snug in the drilled holes, and I don’t have to worry about them falling out.

I used electrical tape to cover up the brads where the pieces of tapewire attach to each other. In the past I’ve done this with Scotch tape, which doesn’t hold up well over time. I also taped down some of the longer wires so they won’t hang and potentially get caught or scraped when the house is moved around.

LET THERE BE LIGHT! I keep saying I’ll never electrify a dollhouse again, and I probably mean it, but there are few things more exciting than turning on the power and seeing the house all lit up.

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Half scale fold-down attic stairs tutorial

When I took apart the Rowhouse’s stair rooms so I could fix the wallpaper, I made an executive decision not to put back the staircase between the second and third floors. It just blocked too much of the room.

I thought about filling in the hole and having no staircase leading up to the third floor — that doesn’t bother me in dollhouses — but I didn’t have enough of the hardwood flooring pieces to patch that big of a hole.

While I was pondering this, I remembered I had a set of folding attic stairs in my stash that I bought on eBay several years ago. This set was made by Datim Miniatures, who appear to be out of business. I was unfolding the ladder, trying to figure out if it would be long enough to reach the floor, when the stairs started falling apart in my hands.

These stairs are pin hinged both at the top and at all the joints where the ladder pieces meet, and all the pins had rusted and were breaking off as I manipulated it. I managed to replace some of them, but the pins that hold the ladder pieces together were inserted into little wood blocks glued to the sides of the ladders, and one of these (not the one pictured below) split in half when I inserted a new pin. And then as I was messing with it the rungs started popping out. It just couldn’t be saved.

So that was pretty disappointing. (I think I spent around $30 on that staircase!) Timberbrook makes a nice set of folding attic stairs in 1:12 scale — I actually used them in my first dollhouse and have another set in my stash that I bought at a flea market — but they don’t come in 1:24 scale. Alessio makes a set in half scale that cost $40. I’d so fallen in love with the idea of fold-out stairs I was willing to pay that much, but I did the math and found they would be too short for my 5″ ceiling — they’re designed for a 4.5″ ceiling and wouldn’t reach all the way to the floor.

So I did what any self-respecting miniaturist would do… I made my own! (Instructions follow, see the bottom of the post for a list of supplies needed.)

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Patching up the upstairs stair room

With the Rowhouse’s wallpaper and staircase fixed, I moved on to the upstairs room. I needed to patch the floor where the staircase had previously been, add railings so the little people don’t plunge to their deaths, and figure out how to handle the crown molding and baseboard around the Greyford bookcases I bought to go on either side of the window.

I didn’t think to take a picture of the floor when I started this process, but this one gives an idea of the area that needed patching:

Luckily, I had a few leftover pieces of the flooring I used. I tried removing some floorboards so the patch would be less obvious, but it was hard to pull them up without breaking them, which left remnants of the floorboard behind that were then tough to get off.

So I decided to start patching and see how bad it looked with the boards all meeting up in the same place, rather than staggered. The fact that the boards all meet up next to each other isn’t too noticeable beside the bookcase, but as the patch extended beyond the bookcase it would have become more obvious. So I got to work removing more floorboards by sliding the tip of my utility knife or a razor blade under the edge and prying them up.

Some came off more easily than others. Luckily this tapewire isn’t attached to anything so I didn’t have to worry about damaging it.

When I got to the edges I needed two irregular pieces. The floorboards splintered if I tried to cut them, so I used basswood for these.

All patched!

The Greyford bookcases are 4.75″ tall and the ceiling height is 5″. That left too small of a space above the bookcases to fit the crown molding. I decided to add wood to the bottoms, so the bookcases go all the way to the ceiling. Then I’ll just put crown between the two bookcases rather than running the crown around the top (which would have been complicated by the trim at the top of the bookcase).

These bookcases are supposedly “new walnut” finish, but they’re darker than other new walnut pieces I’ve bought in the past. Here’s the bookcase next to a new walnut kitchen cabinet I’m going to use in a different house. The lighter color was what I was expecting when I ordered the bookcases.

I tried all my different stains to find a match and this was the closest I could get. This is Minwax Mahogany gel stain.

The base blends in better on the far bookcase, which is in shadow, than on the close one, but hopefully once the room is finished that won’t be where your eyes go. While I was working on this, the settee I ordered from JBM in Australia arrived. I like it!

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