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Victorianna master bathroom (almost) done

This week I’ve been working on the shower, tub faucet, and trim in the Victorianna’s master bathroom. Everything was in progress at the same time so I’ve divided this post up by topic instead of showing the pictures chronologically.

Shower

To make the shower floor, I laid down a piece of beadboard (with the grooves facing the floor) and traced around the bottom of the shower. Like with the shower walls, I used the beadboard because I have a lot of it and it’s easy to cut.

The shower floor sits on the tiles, with the shower butting up against it. The shower floor will be glued in but I don’t plan to glue in the shower, so I can have access to the inside if I need it to fix anything later. (I didn’t leave myself access behind the shower in the downstairs bathroom, and some of that tile wallpaper is turning yellow from light exposure now — no way to fix it without destroying things. Sigh.)

The shower hardware is from Elf Miniatures. It came with a washer that I initially thought was supposed to be a base for the showerhead (like in the picture on the Elf website), but the hole on the washer was slightly larger than the part of the showerhead that goes into the wall, so the shower wall would have shown through. Instead I installed the showerhead directly into the wall and used the washer as a drain.

I wasn’t sure if the handle should be pointing down or pointing sideways — on the website it’s sideways, and I almost did that, but in the horizontal position it’s off center in the base, which made me think it was supposed to be vertical. Does it look wrong?

I painted the floor using the same process described in my last post, drilled a hole in the shower floor for the drain, and glued the washer over the hole.

Next I glued in the floor. The dowel is keeping the corner from popping up while the glue dried.

And the shower’s done! Well, almost. I also cut out and painted two triangular shelves. I want to glue some shampoo bottles and soap to the shelves before I glue the shelves to the wall, and don’t have those ready yet.

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Victorianna master bath – marble shower & vanity

After a long hiatus, I’m back to work on the Victorianna’s master bathroom. The problem with getting distracted mid-project is that it takes a while to remember what I was doing and what I planned to do next. The last time I worked on this, I had made good progress on the vanity and linen closet, then needed to pause until I could make a trip to Tap Plastics — which is ~40 minutes away, across the Golden Gate Bridge — to get plastic for the shower. I bought that last fall and it’s been sitting in the unfinished bathroom ever since.

To refresh your memory, here’s the bare bones bathroom. The wallpaper only goes halfway down because there will be beadboard wainscoting at the bottom. The door on the left leads to the nursery, and the one at the back to the master bedroom.

Here’s the layout of the bathroom. The corner tub is cast in resin from a Marx bathtub, purchased from Atomic Kiki on Etsy.

The bathroom is large but the sloped ceiling limits what I can do along the right wall, so I decided to do a separate tub and shower with the tub in the short corner and the shower in the tall corner.

Here’s the shower mock-up. The bottom pieces are porch railing base. The surround pieces are the same beadboard I’m using on the walls, but with the scribed part turned toward the wall. I used this rather than regular basswood because the scribed lines make it easy to cut straight. Thin basswood is so soft that when I cut with a utility knife along the grain, I usually end up with a horribly wavy cut.

I put off building the shower for so long after buying the plastic because I needed to drill holes for the handle, and the idea of drilling those holes scared me. (As you may recall from the Blackbird Bar’s optics, drilling holes is not my forte.) I ended up getting Geoff to do it for me. I also needed to bevel the edges so the pieces would meet at an angle, which I did with the belt sander.

I “painted” the base pieces with a silver Sharpie, then glued them together.

Next I checked the edges and sanded a bit more to make them fit together as snugly as possible.

The door handle is made from soft metal wire that can be bent easily with needlenose pliers. I made several handles before I got the size and the curves right.

To glue in the handle, I put a piece of Scotch tape on the back (to cover up the holes where the drill had gone through the paper backing), and then dotted Super Glue on the handle ends and stuck the ends in the holes. The tape was there to keep glue from spooging out the back. After a few minutes I peeled off the paper backing (with the tape attached). A little glue did spooge out, but acetone cleaned it up without damaging the plexiglass.


WARNING: I later tried acetone on a different piece of plexiglass, for a different project, and it made the plastic foggy. I spoke to the people at Tap Plastics about this and they said you should NEVER use acetone on plexiglass, it will usually fog it up and ruin it. I don’t know why it didn’t fog up my shower but they convinced me to never try it again! Windex and Goo Gone are also bad. To clean glue residue off plexiglass, they recommended plain old soap and water or a product named De-Solv-It. Now back to your regularly scheduled blog post…


I used an Xacto knife to add score lines to the door piece, to create the illusion that this is a door set into a larger piece of glass — you can sort of see them in the photo below. To assemble the shower, I glued the bottoms of the panels into the base pieces with tacky glue. While that was still wet, I ran a bead of super glue along each of the seams and pressed the panels together. That glue bonded within a few seconds to hold the panels in place while the tacky glue dried.

Once again, glue smears got cleaned up, and then I used a microfiber cloth (the kind you clean eyeglasses with) to get rid of dust and fingerprints.

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Half scale cocktail set

The theme for this year’s Half Scale Miniatures Group swap was “filling the shelves”. Every year I try to make something no one else will think of, but initially I was having a hard time with this one. This is a big swap — I needed to be able to make 40 of whatever I came up with, without them being crazy expensive or having an overwhelming number of steps for assembly. I was thinking about books with bookends, but I kind of hate putting together miniature books (even though it’s easy), so I wasn’t too excited about it.

Right around the time I started working on the Blackbird Bar roombox, I made a trip to Michaels to get inspired. And with booze on the brain, I came up with the idea of a half scale cocktail set.

It was late November and Michaels was in full Christmas mode. That’s actually part of the reason I made the trip — I wanted to look for Christmas lights like these that I could use to make bottles for my 1:12 bar. Every year since Joann Swanson (the queen of dollhouse diy projects!) posted that tutorial, I have looked high and low for the type of lights she used and can never find them. Regular Christmas lights don’t look enough like bottles to me. They need that long neck like the ones Joann used.

Once again, Michaels didn’t have them this year, but they did have these. (Actually, only the Ashland lights were from Michael’s. The Sylvania lights were from the Joann Fabrics around the corner. But Ashland makes clear bulbs, too.) These lights have a rounded top edge and a ball on the top that reminded me of Absolut Vodka bottles. I thought I could paint the ball to look like a cap.

These LED lights are made out of plastic, and you can’t just pull them off their base like you can the incandescent lights attached by little wires. I used the saw and miter box to cut into each light near where it meets the plastic base. The LED is a bulb that sticks up out of the base. I sawed into the light about halfway and then snapped it off. Most of the time the LED stayed attached to the base. That’s a good thing — otherwise it’s hard to get out of the “bottle” because the bottom of the LED is the same diameter as the bottom of the bottle.

Of course, the snapped-off bottles have a jagged edge. I carefully used the disc sander to flatten them. (My fingers got awfully close!) If you don’t have a disc sander you could use regular sandpaper or a file, but it’ll take longer.

The sanding heated up the plastic, which created warm plastic crumbs that immediately hardened as they cooled. I poked these off with a toothpick, but then the bottles ended up with little plastic crumbs inside them that didn’t want to come out. I soaked them in water for a few minutes, and then dried out the insides with the rolled-up tip of a paper towel.

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