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Upstairs porch trim

With work on the exterior towers (mostly) done, it seems safe to assemble the Victorianna’s second floor porch railing. I was putting it off to prevent knocking into it, plus the porch has made a great platform for holding tower pieces as I’ve been working on them…

There were some gaps between the porch floorboards and the crown molding trim that needed filling in. Normally I’d use wood filler for something like this, but I didn’t trust myself to paint over the wood filler neatly without getting dribbles of gray on the beige.

I was on the verge of doing it — against my better judgment — when I remembered the tub of gray mortar that I originally bought to grout the Victorianna’s bricks. (2+ years later, they’re still nowhere close to being ready for that!)

The mortar is darker than the porch gray, but it makes the gaps blend in, which is all I needed to do. Once the railing is glued in there will be too much going on to notice this (but if I’d left the gaps unfilled, I think you would have noticed them).

Since the porch has been a landing spot for construction debris for so long, before starting on the railing I cleaned it up with a damp paper towel and touched up the paint.

For the newel posts, I used 1/4″ square basswood with baseboard around the bottoms, like the ones on the first floor. Since these don’t support a roof they need some kind of cap and finial at the top. There aren’t many options for spindles, newel posts, etc. in half scale so I like cutting up 1:12 pieces and using the parts in half scale.

The Victorianna’s first floor staircase has a square newel post with a finial on the top that I cut off a 1:12 post. I’m not sure what style newel post I cut it off of and I can’t find any online right now (it might have been an old/discontinued package that I bought at a mini flea market). I had five of those posts left and that’s how many the porch needs, so it seemed like a good way to use them.

On the staircase newel post, I left a bit of the post exposed at the top and then added skinny trim, which I think was leftover window mullion pieces. For the porch, I initially cut off the finials a little lower intending to add the same skinny trim around the bottom of the cut off piece, to create that stair-step effect.

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Assembling the cupola

With the 1:48 gazebo bashed beyond recognition and the spiral staircase finished, it’s time to assemble the Victorianna’s cupola. The first step was to glue crown molding around the top for the cupola to sit on. I used a scrap of wood as a spacer to ensure the base would be flush with the tops of the tower walls.

I thought the crown molding would completely hide the holes so you wouldn’t be able to see them from the room underneath.

Not so much.

I pondered how to fix this for an embarrassingly long time. I was so fixated on having the entire cupola painted Tuscan Beige to match the house trim, I missed the most obvious solution: cover the bottom side of the base with ceiling paper. (On the bright side, when I realized it would be that easy to fix, I felt really proud of myself!)

Perfect! Well, those crown molding joints aren’t perfect. But considering I glued them in looking down from above, it’s not bad. You’re never going to see it as close up as it is in this picture.

Next it was time to glue in the staircase. (Oh, that reminds me – remember how Luminaris dropped the ball on replacing missing pieces from the staircase kit, and I wouldn’t have been able to use it at all if I hadn’t been bashing it? The last week of October, a full month after my last “where are my replacement pieces?” email to them, a package showed up in the mail. Never got a reply email, and there was no note in the package apologizing for or even acknowledging the delay. If they’d bothered to follow up with me I could have told them I didn’t need the parts anymore…)

I put glue along the edge of the landing, as well as under the staircase’s base and bottom step. Some glue smeared on the floor as I pushed the staircase into position but I was able to wipe it up with a damp paper towel through the door of the tower room.

This room is now impossible to reach into so I hope I never drop anything in there. (Who am I kidding? Of course I’ll drop something in there.)

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Stained glass windows

My first experience using Gallery Glass was in the Oak Shadow roombox, in a Guys from Texas class a million years ago. This was a 1:12, Craftsman style window with a very simple design, and we used silver tape to create the lead lines. I never got around to creating a gallery for this roombox, but here are a couple of pics.

Since then, I’ve had these bottles of Gallery Glass on my shelf (plus a few more I picked up on clearance at Michaels), all sad and neglected. Now that I’m working on the oval windows in the Victorianna’s towers, I decided to give them a chance to shine.

In theory, making a stained glass window is easy — you just lay down the lead lines and then spread Gallery Glass paint between the lines. But the lines are where I get tripped up. The Gallery Glass tape or lead tape you can buy is too thick for miniature lead lines, so it would need to be cut into thin strips, and I don’t exactly have a steady hand when it comes to cutting straight lines. Also I’m not sure how to use the tape to create curves. I’ve seen beautiful results that other people have done with tape, I just don’t have the skill to achieve it myself.

Last year I invested in some Gallery Glass Liquid Lead, thinking that would work better than tape for the lines. I tried making stained glass windows for the two round windows in the Queen Anne Rowhouse. The result was… not great. But practice makes perfect, right? (Well, maybe if you actually *practice* it does…)

For the Victorianna, I found a simple pattern online and scaled it to fit in the oval windows. Here’s what I managed to do with the Liquid Lead, which I spread with the tip of a toothpick.

Um, no, that’s not gonna fly. Nice try, though.

I was just about ready to nix the stained glass window idea and put the Gallery Glass bottles back on the shelf for another 10+ years when this eBay listing for stained glass inserts showed up. (Hi, karma! *waves* Thanks for stopping by!) These inserts are printed on acetate — something I’d opted not to do myself due to the expense of buying the special ink jet printer transparency sheets and replenishing my color printer ink and finding an appropriate design. I contacted the seller, Carol, and she agreed to a custom order for six window inserts, plus a larger panel for the oval door on the second floor.

Here’s how the transparency looks in the window frame. The size is perfect, and I like the design. The color is a bit “thin” though (even more so when it doesn’t have a white background behind it), and it definitely has the flatness of a printed design rather than the thick, wavy texture of stained glass.

So that got me thinking… what about using Gallery Glass on the transparency? I wasn’t sure if it would mess up the ink or the acetate somehow, but a quick search on the Greenleaf forum revealed that Gallery Glass on printed acetate is indeed an acceptable practice. Hey, I may not be able to make straight lead lines, but I can paint by number!

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